Tarun Tahiliani, partners with World Gold Council – Tarun Tahiliani for Azva, Forevermark, Swarovski and Diageo Johnnie Walker Platinum Label 18, to unveil his new couture collection, the ‘Modern Mughals’, at the sixth edition of the Tarun Tahiliani Bridal Couture Exposition 2014 that opened today at The Four Seasons Hotel in Mumbai.
Modern MughalsArt often gets way laid between creating and curating. Those who make beautiful objects need cognizance when they look in the artistic mirror of a credible connoisseur looking back. Da Vinci had the Medici family, Shakespeare had the royal court, Tansen had Akbar – patrons with impeccable taste that transcended art form, geographies, religion to put beauty at the forefront. As the wheel of fortune turns and the powers of the world get reshuffled, ‘taste’ is not the monopoly of the royalty anymore. The modern day aesthete is a perfection seeking curator and for their impeccable tastes is Tarun Tahiliani’s Bridal Couture Exposition.
The Couture and Bridal CollectionThe global Indian today is making choices which help him embrace his cultural inheritance as well as straddle the diaspora of identities that is modern living. A mélange of Indian craftsmanship perfected over generations with the fit, finish and functionality of western clothing. With the use of modern fabric like sheer silks, reshams and tullé; the ensemble becomes lighter, giving ease of movement. Evolved draping techniques are designed to work with the dynamics of the body and let the fabric echo the shapes of the body as it moves. Drape and Structure – the definitive of a Tarun Tahiliani creation perfected over the years is permeating to its Couture sensibilities. The shaded gold with aubergine graded kalidar falls like a princess gown with an attached dupatta draped over the shoulder leaving your hands free.Using stitched-in pleats and belted saris gives a contemporary element to traditional style and is added comfort, keeping everything in place. The bronze trellis jacket is the pièce de résistance of this collection. It’s skeletal structure and dramatic lines make it suitable for a femme fatale’s closet and also a chic statement piece for a formal occasion. Another highlight is the lehenga in a champagne hue gathered at three levels giving multiple layers of ruffles – a cornucopia of rich fabric with detailed gold borders, a fairytale indulgence for the new age nobility. The colour scheme stretches to include blushes of light pink, jade and mauve reminiscent of American realist painter Edward Hopper. Light resham on ivory in soft shades create a pastoral fantasy as the light bounces off the sheer tulle. Muted tones and breezy layers of the anarkali kurta are as light as a summer’s day.
Couture for MenMen have always had it easier in the battle of aesthetics vis-à-vis comfort, but they are doomed to be relegated to the black, blue, grey category. Rescuing them from this colourless fate, the collection uses a plentiful of gold, unconventional pistachio, deep oranges and an even wilder punk palette for luxurious linings, Mughal motifs depicted detailed procession in digital print being one of the more indulgent ones. The stand out is the ostentatious cummerbund a bejewelled fastener with a cowl at the back and a half skirt that extends to add grace when you walk. It lends drama and flair to the traditional understated sherwani. Royal blue bundi with detailed gold thread work consistent with the Mughal trope is paired with grey kurta and jodhpurs in light fabric. The jodhpurs, rather than holding up the conventional form comfortably fall into place.